QALAAT
SAMAAN and THE DEAD CITIES
By Carol
Miller*
"Teach us to care and not to care. Teach us
to sit still."
George Lamb
"Come in under the shadow of this rock," pleads
Christian historian George Lamb, echoing St. Simeon the Elder,
reputedly the first and definitely the most famous of the long
succession of stylitoe, or "pillar hermits", who during
more than six centuries, writes theologian Herbert Thurston,
"acquired by their strange form of asceticism a great
reputation for holiness throughout eastern Christendom."
According to Philip Hitti, in his book History of Syria, Lebanon
and Palestine, the founder of the ascetic movement was St.
Anthony of Egypt, who followed his faith into life as a hermit in
the desert, and who died c. 360 A.D. A Palestinian monk named
Hilarion, a disciple of Anthony's, was credited with introducing
asceticism into southern Syria and Gaza toward the end of the fourth
century. Ascetic communities came to flourish around Antioch, says
historian Shawol Sha'ath, of the National Museum of Aleppo, to such
an extent that by at the beginning of the fifth century they had
caught the attention, and the concern, of ecclesiastical
authorities, in part because of the "troublesome controversy
over the Monophysite heresy", based, says Ross Burns, "on
pseudo-theological and contradictory interpretations of Christ's
human and divine natures". The polemic had swelled to a
backlash, in effect a revolt, of Syrian Christians against
Constantinople's domination.
Yet while asceticism, even in its most austere form, continued well
into the fifteenth century, Simeon the Elder was acknowledged as the
first Stylite, as such, and so inspired a sequence of successors. He
was followed, for example, by St. Simeon Stylites the Younger, an
ordained priest from Antioch who offered communion to those among
his followers who climbed a ladder to the top of his pillar and who
according to Evagrius fed only on the branches of a shrub that grew
near the town of Theopolis; and he was succeeded in turn by Simeon
Stylites III, honored by both the Greeks and the Copts, who was said
to have been struck by lightning on his pillar.
It was, in any case, Simeon the Elder whose impassioned faith,
obsessive austerity, and purity of spirit, served the interests of
the ecclesiastical hierarchy as a "buffer of piety", and
who caught as well the "respectful attention" of the
Emperor Theodosius and the Empress Eudocia, inspired the reverence
of the Emperor Leo and, says Sha'ath, "aroused the wonder and
admiration of Muslim Arabs and Persians, as well as the Christian
sects".
John Gilmary Shea, in Lives of the Saints, tells us that:
"One winter's day, about the year 401 A.D., when the snow lay
thick around Sisan, a little town in Cilicia… a shepherd boy, who
could not lead his sheep to the fields on account of the cold, went
instead to the church to hear the eight Beatitudes being read that
morning." The child was so deeply impressed he asked how these
blessings could be obtained. "He was told of the monastic life,
and so a thirst for perfection arose in him. And he went on to
become the wonder of the world, the great Saint Simeon Stylites,
given by God in spectacle to Angels and men."
The child was warned, however, that "perfection" would
"cost him dear" and that it could not be attained without
first conquering self. Evagrius, in Ecclesiastical History, I.13,
tells us that "In these times [c. 440 A.D.], there flourished
and became illustrious, Simeon, of holy and famous memory, who
originated the contrivance of stationing himself on the top of a
column, thereby occupying a space of scarce two cubits in
circumference. This man, endeavoring to realize in the flesh the
existence of the heavenly hosts, lifts himself above the concerns of
the earth, and overpowering the downward tendency of man's nature,
is intent on things above. He was adored by all the countryside,
wrought many miracles, and the Emperor Theodosius II listened to his
advice and sought his benediction."
Says English poet, Alfred Lord Tennyson, of St. Simeon Stylites,
"Although I be the basest of mankind,
From scalp to sole one slough and crust of sin,
Unfit for earth, unfit for heaven, scarce meet
For troops of devils, mad with blasphemy,
I will not cease to grasp the hope I hold
Of saintdom, and to clamour, mourn and sob,
Battering the gates of heaven with storms of prayer,
Have mercy, Lord, and take away my sin."
William Stearns Davis, in his Readings in Ancient History,
decries what he describes as "the [obsessive] practices of the
monks of the Greco-Oriental church", yet Evagrius extols that
fact that "Simeon prolonged his endurance of this mode of life
through fifty-six years, nine of which he spent in the first
monastery where he was instructed in divine knowledge, and
forty-seven in the "Mandra" as it was called; namely ten
in a certain nook; on shorter columns, seven; and thirty upon one of
forty cubits."
From childhood, says Shea, "he bound a rope round his waist
until the flesh festered. He desired solitude and spent three years
as a hermit in a cabin at the base of a mountain." Says Herbert
Thurston that "After this he sought a rocky eminence in the
desert and compelled himself to remain a prisoner within a narrow
space less than twenty yards in diameter. But crowds of pilgrims,
attracted by his extreme mortifications, invaded the desert to seek
him out, asking his counsel or his prayers and leaving him
insufficient time for his own devotions."
This eventually obliged him to seek "a new way of life".
So Simeon had a pillar erected with a small platform at the top,
"and upon this he determined to take up his abode until death
released him." He spent thirty-seven years exposed to the sun
and the wind, to the heat and the cold, standing in prayer, never
seen to lie down. During his early years on the column, says
Thurston, "there was on the summit a stake to which he bound
himself in order to maintain the upright position, particularly
during Lent, when he fasted and was weak," but later his
followers had a railing attached to the platform at the top of the
column, to keep kept him from falling.
At first the pillar was little more than three meters high, but
"as he was besieged by his followers it was subsequently
replaced by others, each time higher," the last in the series
being apparently nearly twenty meters off the ground. "Even on
the highest of his columns Simeon was not withdrawn from intercourse
with his fellow men. By means of a ladder which could always be
erected against the side visitors were able to ascend; and we know
that he wrote letters, including suggestions to the Emperor
regarding councils or reforms, and we know also that he instructed
his disciples, and that he also delivered addresses to those
assembled below." He had, however, an aversion to women, so
would turn his back on the crowd or order women to hide their faces.
According to Theodoret, a scribe who lived during Simeon's own
lifetime and who documented details of the ascetic phenomenon,
"he was visited by pilgrims from near and far, from Persia,
Ethiopia, Spain, even Britain. To these at times he delivered
sermons. He wore on his body a heavy iron chain. In praying, he bent
his body so that his forehead almost touched his feet."
A spectator, says Theodoret, once counted 1244 repetitions of this
movement, and then gave up his reckoning. "Simeon took one
scanty meal per week, and fasted annually through the season of
Lent. It is alleged that the devil having afflicted him with an
ulcer in his thigh as reward for a little self-righteousness,
Simeon, as penance, never touched the afflicted leg upon the pillar
again, and stood for the remaining year of his life upon one
leg."
At last, says Shea, "in the year 460, those who watched from
below noticed that Simeon had been motionless for three whole days.
They ascended, and found the old man's body still bent in the
attitude of prayer; but his soul was with God."
Both Constantinople and Antioch claimed his remains. "Against
local [Monophysite] resistance to the removal of his material self,
after his departure [from this life] his holy body was conveyed to
Antioch, intended as a protection for the unwalled city; it was
escorted by the garrison, and a great concourse guarding the
venerable body, lest the inhabitants of the neighboring cities
should gather and carry it off."
St. Simeon's remains were later moved to a martyrium in
Constantinople. "The body," says Evagrius, "has been
preserved nearly entire until my time [c. 580 A.D.] and in company
with many priests I enjoyed a sight of his sacred head, in the
episcopate of the famous Gregory, when Philippicus had requested
that the precious relic of the saint might be sent him for the
protection of the Eastern armies. The head was well preserved save
for the teeth, some of which had been violently removed by the hands
of the pious [for relics]."
St. Simeon's fame spread throughout the region, and the site of his
column became a perennial attraction for pilgrims, while his
devotees chipped off chunks of the pillar, eventually leaving only a
shapeless base. The practice of the "pillar hermit" was
emulated not only by his namesakes, Simeon the Younger and Simeon
III in the sixth century, but by other celebrated holy men, among
them St. Alibiyus of Paphlagonia in the seventh century, St. Luke of
Chalcedonia in the late ninth century, and St. Aleazar on Jalisiyun
mountain near Ephesus (968-1054). And there are even references that
indicate at least one, or perhaps several, women Stylites. But the
most significant to the cause of preserving the mystique of Simeon
the Elder was St. Daniel Stylites (409-493), a merchant from
Constantinople who retired to the monastic life, but retained
sufficient influence to appeal for imperial patronage on behalf of
the construction of a commemorative church, to be considered a cult
site.
Architectural innovation and typically Syrian design elements were
blended with the metropolitan influences from Constantinople, and
classically Byzantine styles. The project was conceived during the
reign of Leo, who died before construction began. Zenon, his
successor, continued the work, beginning in 476. Fourteen years
later, in 490, the magnificent edifice in a singular style forever
associated with northern Syria and considered one of the greatest of
Zenon's architectural achievements, was finally completed.
"The ruins of the vast edifice erected in Simeon's honor,"
says Thurston, "were known as Qal'at Sim'an (Qalaat Samaan),
the mansion, or castle, of Simeon. They remain to the present day
between Antioch and Aleppo [philosophically as well as
geographically], and consisted in four basilicas built out toward
the four points of the compass in the form of a cross, departing
from an octagonal court. In the center of the court stands what
remains of the base of Saint Simeon's column."
"This edifice," wrote architectural historian H.C. Butler
in Architecture and Other Arts, "unquestionably
influenced contemporary and later church building to a marked
degree, while it corresponded to a supreme effort of a provincial
school of architecture which had borrowed little from
Constantinople."
Byzantine art, in its more conventional expression, had been
essentially devoted to expounding the doctrines of Christianity
while it displayed, from Constantinople's point of view, the glory
of the state. It began in vestments and tapestries, in mosaics and
murals, to relate the life of Christ, the sorrows of Mary, the
careers of the apostles or martyrs whose bones were often enshrined
in the church, and ended by presenting Christ and Mary, says
historian Will Durant, as an emperor and a queen.
The Byzantine artist, in actual fact, worked as part of a team, so
seldom left a signature or a name for posterity. Usually he worked
with mortared brick, which lent itself to the curved forms of the
eastern styles. Often, especially after the raising of Simeon's
church, which was considered eminently successful, he chose the
cruciform plan - a basilica crossed with a transept and prolonged to
an apse - or he broke the basilica into an octagon.
"But his distinctive skill," says Durant, "in which
he surpassed all artists before him or since, lay in raising a
circular dome over a polygonal frame, usually by means of the
pendentive, that is, he built an arch or semicircle of bricks over
each side of the polygon, raised a spherical triangle of bricks
upward and inward between each semicircle,and laid a dome upon the
resultant circular ring. The spherical triangles were the
pendentives 'hanging' from the rim of the dome to the top of the
polygon. In architectural effect, the circle was squared."
The spectacular ridge, overlooking a crusty, windswept valley that
descends to the Orontes, in order to accommodate the colossal
structure - termed the world's largest religious construction of the
fifth century - had to be leveled and reinforced. The terrace to the
west still overlooks the valley, and the monastery gardens, olive
groves and pomegranate orchards. By the close of the fifth century a
monastery complex, with cloister and chapel, had been attached to
the southeastern quadrant of the cross that was formed by the four
basilicas. A mortuary chapel was raised on a rocky promontory to the
north. A baptistery was added some two hundred meters to the south,
followed by annexes that included two hostelries. A "Via
Sacra" connected the beautiful baptistery to the monumental
arch at the entrance to the pilgrimage town of Deir al-Samaan - now
one of the Dead Cities-just below the ridge. A series of
particularly vehement earthquakes, however, in 526 and 528, struck
northern Syria and caused severe damage in Aleppo, Antioch, and
Seleucia, as well as to Qalaat Samaan.
When the Arab expansion of the seventh century displaced the
Byzantines in the region, the great church and monastery were
nonetheless allowed to remain under Christian control. A later
weakening of the Islamic state during the Abbassid era, and again
under the Hamdanids, nevertheless encouraged the Byzantine
reconquest in the mid-tenth century, and permitted a return of
pilgrims to St. Simeon, as well as the fortification of the entire
religious complex, particularly along the edges of the ridge, to the
east and west. "Simeon's Citadel", for over a century,
thus served as the de facto frontier between Byzantium and the
Hamdanid state in Aleppo. An inscription from this period
commemorates works of restoration to the church, as well as the
elaborate mosaic pavement, whose construction was jointly ordered by
the Emperor Basil II and his brother Constantine VIII.
In 986 the Hamdanid prince Saif al-Dawlah, after a three-day siege,
was able to recapture the fortress, which was nevertheless taken
again in 1017 by the Fatimids, with an army brought from Egypt, by
this time in control of northern Syria. The fortress, sadly,
gradually lost its strategic significance, and so was eventually
abandoned.
The centuries of the citadel's ascendance, however, represented a
milestone in the history of the art and architecture of northern
Syria, as evidenced by the tangible remains in several among the
more than one hundred -- of the estimated total of perhaps 800-of
the "Dead Cities" scattered across the coarse limestone
formations of the Belus Massif, between the Orontes and Afrin rivers
to the west and the Aleppo-Hama highway to the east. Grooved
pilasters, capitals with acanthus motifs as well as the classical
Corinthian or Ionian inherited from Greece and Rome, pillars used to
round off the piers that support the arches - an idiosyncrasy later
employed in Resafa-and decorative friezes among other design
elements, often carefully sculpted, sometimes simply rustic and
ingenuous, are uniquely bound to this region, which remained for all
time an aesthetic accident or happenstance, supported by centuries
of cultivation of the valleys and hillsides.
Yet agriculture as a general pursuit was unfortunately abandoned
after the tenth century, possibly due to invasions or persecutions,
among other human disruptions, but was inevitably associated as well
with ecological damage attributed to deforestation, overgrazing and
erosion. Equally significant, however, were the earthquakes and
related climatic changes, which surely caused alterations in the
level or availability of water.
The earliest settlement is dated 250 A.D., according to a study
undertaken in the 1950's by the French Institute for Near Eastern
Archaeology (FAPO) in Beirut, with palpable population expansion,
especially of Syriac-speaking farmers and peasants, between 340 and
550, reasonably associated, especially toward the end of this time
frame, with the droves of the faithful attracted to the pillar of
St. Simeon. Population estimates leveled off during the late sixth
and throughout the seventh centuries, but dropped during the rather
abusive Abbassid years, considered hostile to Syria, traditionally a
domain of the prior Umayyad dynasty. Modest resettlement after the
Muslim recapture of the region in 1164 was reversed again under the
Ottomans.
Most of the architectural remains are domestic, and in the absence
of readily available wood built almost entirely - including
stairways, cupboards, porticoes, balconies, benches, ceilings, roofs
-- of the durable regional limestone; but include as well a
remarkable diversity of public buildings, among them churches,
tombs, and monasteries, some of them impressively ambitious, and
extending as well to baths, administrative buildings, and
commemorative works such as arches, as in Sergilla; and the rough
dry walls of recycled stone both dressed and natural that define the
lanes inside the towns - as at Al-Bara-- or that separate villas
from orchards and groves as in Deir al-Samaan; and also the ancient
roads, a number of them dating from Roman days, connecting the
various communities. Many of these are now paved highways,
facilitating access to the disperse towns and villages, with their
random scattering of architectural memorabilia.
Carol Miller,
is a sculptress and writer, devoted to her avid research of ancient
cultures, from Mexico where she lives, or along her travels
throughout the world. "Mari" is a chapter from a
forthcoming book, soon to be available at Amazon.com
or BarnesandNoble.com.
Among her titles are "The Winged Prophet, from Hermes to
Quetzalcoatl", with Guadalupe Rivera Marin, a study in
comparative mythology; and "Travels in the Maya World",
"The Other Side of Yesterday, the China-Maya Connection"
and "Training Juan Domingo: Mexico and Me", exerpts of
which can be viewed at http://www.xlibris.com/CarolMiller.html |
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